Garden Club Seasonal Info 

  Recycle dates:  8-25 or 8-26

 Next Board Meeting:  Friday, August 15, 8am

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Summer Gardening Tips from
    Ilene O'Meara
Easy Ways to Conserve Water
Winter Watering

Fertilizing
Ornamental Grasses
Roses
Bark Beetles update


Gardening Tips from Ilene O'Meara

Summer
The Metro District is requesting the residents' cooperation with a voluntary summer watering schedule, which began on May 1, 2002 and runs to October 1, 2002.
Please do not water on Mondays. This day is reserved for no watering, and also allows our water storage tank to recover and refill after weekend use.
If your address ends with an even number, please set your irrigation system to water on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday.
If your address ends with an odd number, please set your irrigation system to water on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday.
 
Easy Ways to Conserve Water
Water only early in the morning and after sundown.
Most lawns get too much water: Visit www.watersaver.org to determine how much your lawn really needs.

Cut your watering time by 10 percent and lighten up on the fertilizer.

Tune up your automatic sprinkler system. Minor adjustments may make it work better for you.

Use mulch in planter areas to help retain moisture and fight weeds.

Winter Watering
Don't forget to water if we go three weeks without precipitation. You may want to wait to turn on your sprinkler system. Weather here is fickle and you run the risk of pipes freezing if we have a hard freeze. Our average last frost free date is about May 15.

Fertilizing
Allow the yard to green up on its own before fertilizing this spring. The brown turf is busy developing deep roots. Once nitrogen is added, grass changes its focus to developing the green top and you will get yourself into the "fertilize, water, mow" cycle much earlier than necessary. You will appreciate the deep root system in the hot days of July.

Ornamental Grasses
If you have not already done so, cut back all ornamental grasses to allow the new growth to come through. Once the new growth has developed, it's extremely difficult to cut back the grasses without mutilating the plant.
 
Roses
Do NOT prune roses yet. Pruning stimulates plants to grow, and we are still susceptible to a hard freeze which would kill the new growth.

Bark Beetles update
Bark beetles normally become a problem in forests when trees are growing under less than optimum conditions. This makes it desirable to keep trees in a healthy and vigorous condition, by providing growing conditions that reduce competition among plants for available moisture, nutrients, sunlight and space. Selective thinning that improves spacing is key to keeping trees healthy, and is recommended where acceptable such as open space areas or portions of lots where privacy and aesthetics are not compromised. 
In lieu of thinning, additional practices can be implemented, more to protect individual trees than to protect the forest as a whole.
 
Preventive spraying helps keep bark beetles from attacking trees in the short term, and must be applied yearly to be absolutely certain attacks do not occur. Carbaryl (Sevin) applied at the proper time of year will prevent bark beetle attacks.
 
Mountain Pine Beetles, Ips Beetle, and Red Turpentine Beetle require different application timing and techniques. Preventive for Mountain Pine Beetle should be applied in late June to early July before emergence begins around July 15. Trunks need to be treated their entire length to a 5 inch top diameter. Trees greater than 8 inches diameter are most susceptible. Spraying smaller trees is not necessary for MPB prevention.
 
Ips Beetle preventive should be used to protect young transplant trees or smaller trees otherwise stressed. Transplant trees should be sprayed beginning in April with additional applications made around June 1 and again around September 1. Branches and trunks should receive application. Transplants should be treated from 2-3 growing seasons or until vigorous new candle growth is observed. Preventing Red Turpentine Beetle involves spraying the lower trunk area from ground level to about 4 feet. Trees damaged by fire or construction are particularly vulnerable.
 
Prevention treatments should be used to protect trees that are ‘key’ to the landscape, during periods of epidemic outbreaks, or when known stressors have affected the tree. Spraying well established, vigorous trees that are not stressed is not considered necessary since healthy trees are rarely successfully attacked.

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